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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.